($285; from an uplifted river bottom rich in cobblestones, in an area behind Phelps and Heitz known as Spring Valley) Deep ruby. Superripe aromas of plum, blueberry and violet. Like liquid silk on the palate, conveying powerful early sweetness and an utterly seamless quality to its dark fruit flavors. Impressively broad wine, finishing with substantial tannins and rising length. But comes across as less complex today than the young Melbury.

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The brilliant 2007 Quella exhibits the superb texture, opulence, and fleshy mouthfeel of this vintage, but with terrific delineation and minerality. Full-bodied and inky purple-colored, the wine displays blue fruits, acacia flowers, crushed rock and spicy oak in an opulent, impressively endowed style that should age nicely for 20 or more years.

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A tremendous effort, firm, intense, dense and concentrated, offering a wonderful mix of mineral, fresh earth, dried currant and herb, with touches of tobacco and cedar. Full-bodied, yet at points supple given its youth, but the finish sails on and on.

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