($48) Deep ruby. Ripe, smoky aromas of blackberry and blueberry complicated by anise and mocha. Fleshy, deeply concentrated dark fruit flavors convey an inky, brooding quality and are firmed by youthful tannins. Finishes with solid grip and a lick of cracked pepper. I'd put this away for a few years.

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More elegant in style, and less powerful, is the 2006 Zinfandel Bacigalupi Vineyard (15.2% alcohol as well). This is a wine with hints of seaweed, pepper, underbrush, and red and black fruits in a full-bodied style.

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