(from a parcel of vines that is close to Vaudésir and extends all the way from Grenouilles to the tree line at the top of the hill; in 2006 this vineyard gave only 30 hl/ha) No review available

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Exotic spice notes complicate the grapefruit and pineapple fruitiness on the nose; a bit less exuberant today than the Vaudesir, with hints of menthol and licorice. Then drier and more serious in the mouth, offering classic flavors of citrus peel, menthol, licorice and minerals. A very dense, fresh wine with a brisk, palate-staining back end. The crop level here was a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare, notes director Stephane Follin-Arbelet, who pointed out that although yields ranged from 30 to 50 hectoliters across the house's holdings in '06, most of the cru bottlings come from old vines affected by a good bit of crop-reducing coulure

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More oaky on the nose, more creamy but still bright tight citrus. tightly mineral on the palate but also more woody. Very crisp, very young and tightly wound. (JH)

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Fevre's 2006 Chablis Valmur represents a dramatically different expression of Chablis character from the Vaudesir. Peony, musk, marzipan, and candied lime are the key notes (along with hints of lanolin and spice) in this rich, sweetly-perfumed, almost confectionary wine. As with the corresponding Bougros, this exhibits an uncanny sense of lift and near-delicacy for all of its creaminess and amplitude. The pure, long finish is almost ethereal in its suggestions of heady flowers and delicate mineral shadings. This may well be the sort of Chablis some growers and critics have in mind when they say (as if that were to denigrate the wine) "tastes like Cote d'Or," but if so (and I disagree with the characterization, anyway), I say "bring on more of the same!" Precisely the dramatic range of expression of which Chablis is capable even in a single vintage - and which this year's Fevre collection so faithfully illustrates - is one of this region's great strengths. Perhaps this Valmur should be drunk within a decade - a little sooner than some of the other Fevre 2006 crus - but I am sure only time will tell.

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