($73) Vivid red. Impressively complex bouquet of raspberry, dried cherry, garrigue and flowers. Exotic apricot and floral honey notes come up with air and carry onto the palate, which shows sweet red fruit flavors, a smoky quality and a velvety texture. This very elegant wine is already putting on a seductive show. Finishes smooth, juicy and very long. The juice that goes into this cuvee comes from vines that are at least 50 years of age, with the blend featuring 65% grenache, 15% each of syrah and mourvedre, and 5% cinsault and "divers (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA)

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Very very ripe black fruit. Roasted potato skin aromas. Dry but fine tannins and freshness makes it seem lighter than it is. Sour cherry finish. (JH)

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The 2006 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape, which is aged only in foudre and bottled with minimal clarification, is a more masculine, muscular effort than most 2006s. Its dark ruby/purple color is followed by notions of the sushi seaweed wrapper, nori, interwoven with incense, lavender, pepper, and copious quantities of black cherry and raspberry fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with moderate tannin, and good structure as well as depth, it will benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age, and should keep for 15 or more years.

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A very grippy style, with lots of sweet tapenade, tobacco, hot stone and braised chestnut notes weaving through a core of dark currant and fig fruit. There's a nice twinge of lavender on the structured finish. For the cellar. 16,000 cases made.

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Still young-ish but tasty, ESP with roast.