($140-$178) Bright, deep ruby-red. Brooding aromas of crushed blueberry, bitter chocolate and roast coffee. Rich, broad and sweet, with an almost liqueur-like ripeness of dark berries leavened by brisk acidity and firm minerality. Lots of lift and life here for such a lush, creamy wine. Finishes with big, sweet, building tannins and terrific palate-staining length. This should enjoy a long evolution in bottle.

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It could be easy, after tasting the monumental 2005, to dismiss the 2006 Troplong Mondot, but don't be so foolish. Proprietress Christine Valette has turned out another exceptional performance. Of course, this is not the 2005- a singular vintage that will be difficult to duplicate in a 20-30 year span, but the 2006 Troplong Mondot is an impressive, powerful, broad, surprisingly masculine and deep effort. Its inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by an exceptional bouquet of powdered rock, blackberries, blueberries, spring flowers, and hints of camphor as well as espresso roast. The wine is full-bodied with a layered, multidimensional texture, sensational purity and structure, and elevated levels of tannin, concentration, and richness. Forget it for 7-8 years, and drink it over the following 20-25 years.

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Coffee, cedar, blackberry and tobacco aromas follow through to a tight, powerful palate. This is full yet very reserved, with silky, polished tannins.

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