($47) Aromas of lime, lemon drop, minerals, talc and spices. Dense, chewy and juicy, with a dusty, tactile texture and a classic dryness. A superripe flavor of apricot nectar is enlivened by bright acidity and a note of citrus pith. This large-scaled chardonnay harmonized nicely with extended aeration: I'd give it another year in the bottle before pulling the cork.

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Shafer's non-malolactic Chardonnay (5,000 cases produced) is currently represented by the 2006 Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch. Although not one of the top successes of Shafer's Chardonnay program, it is certainly excellent. This vintage was difficult for Chardonnay, but this offering reveals crisp, elegant, melony characteristics along with fresh fruit, good acidity, medium body, and plenty of tropical fruit and honeysuckle notes. Approximately 75% was barrel-fermented and 25% was aged in stainless steel, which gives the wine more crispness.

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Rich and creamy, both in flavor and texture, bold and extracted, with fleshy fig, apricot and light nutmeg shadings. Yet for all its power it offers a sense of elegance and balance. 6,500 cases made.

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