($72; 100% sangiovese; 22 months in 50% new barriques; 3.22 pH; 14.9% alcohol) Good full ruby. Perfumed nose of ripe plum, sweet almonds and tobacco. Chewy and lush, boasting a sappy core of blueberry, tobacco and sweet spice flavors complicated by a delicate smoky element. The firm, solidly tannic finish is just this side of drying. An impressive wine and a testament to the greatness of sangiovese: I'd drink this over the next decade.

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The 2006 Percarlo is one of the all-time legendary wines from San Giusto. Everything is in the right place. Firm yet wonderfully refined tannins support an intense core of fruit. The 2006 possesses dazzling richness and intensity, all supported by its considerable structural heft. Layers of black cherries, licorice and spices wrap around the muscular, potent finish. This is an absolutely breathtaking showing from the 2006, in my view the greatest Percarlo and easily one of the finest wines of this historic Tuscan harvest.

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I am missing something about this wine. Tannins are hard, fruit is moderate and may not last.