($73-$100) Deep ruby. Raspberry, cherry, violet and minerals on the nose, plus an undercurrent of smoky minerals. The smokiness repeats on the palate, adding complexity to the sweet red and dark berry flavors. Cracked pepper and sweet floral pastille notes linger on the finish, which is admirably pure and persistent.

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The 2006 Cote Rotie, which comes largely from the Cote Brune vineyard Vialliere with another part from Les Plans, looks superb. Dense ruby/purple with sweet tannins, beautiful acidity, fabulous flavor intensity and penetration, and again, great aromatics, this is a terrific Cote Rotie that should ultimately eclipse the 2005.

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Pure and silky, with layers of black cherry and crushed plum fruit woven with sanguine and macerated olive notes. Nice underlying cut runs through the sage-tinged finish.

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