($105) Saturated red. Very complex nose displays vivid scents of raspberry, blackcurrant, olive and garrigue Deep, palate-coating red and dark berry flavors are complicated by smoky herbal and floral pastille qualities, with silky tannins adding focus. The floral notes linger seductively on the finish, which is pure, juicy and long.

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Relatively light and sinewy on the nose for a special cuvée. Thick and dense and sweet on the palate though - some obvious oak influence on the finish. Cross between Châteauneuf and modern red wine. Grenache with 5% Syrah in cuve.

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A star of the vintage is the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Mon Aieul. It is hard to believe how great this wine has turned out to be. I called it last year, and I'm thrilled to see how utterly profound it is. Essentially very old vine Grenache from three different terroirs (the sands of Les Serres, the clay of Guignasse, and the limestone of La Crau), aged 80% in cement tanks and 20% in old barrels, it boasts a dense plum/purple color followed by a glorious bouquet of black cherries, blackberries, truffles, lavender, licorice, and spring flowers. The color is one of the darkest of the vintage, and the wine is extremely full-bodied and rich with intense levels of extract and tannin, but the latter is gorgeously sweet and well-integrated.

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Silky and forward, with black tea, melted licorice, hoisin sauce, mocha and currant fruit flavors gliding along cocoa-tinged tannins. Additional hints of tobacco, chestnut and grilled beef flitter through the finish, which has solid, latent grip.

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Great fruit acid balance. A lovely wine. Excellent value