($95) Good deep red. Subtle, complex nose offers raspberry, smoke, earth, underbrush, black tea and minerals, lifted by exotic spices. Lush, broad and dry, with dominant flavors of plum, smoked meat and brown spices. More soil- than fruit-driven initially, but a strong raspberry flavor emerged with aeration. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and some medicinal earthy spices. The fruit here is 100% destemmed and because the grapes are harvested at very cool temperature the fermentation normally takes five to seven days to start, said winemaker Nic Morlet. This is quite Burgundian in style.

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The 2006 Pinot Noir Le Moulin Rouge is awkward following bottling. It seems austere and not nearly as impressive as I was hoping it would turn out to be. This is certainly a very good wine, but angular, and it clearly reflects the challenging aspects of this vintage for Pinot Noir.

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Smooth and harmonious, offering supple plum, black cherry and wild berry, with hints of cola, sassafras and spice. Turns elegant and delicate, ending with a long, soothing finish.

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This wine is NOT ready to drink now. Disappointed in the wine overall, but think it will be better in a year or two.