($95; 45% cabernet sauvignon, 36% merlot, 17% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot) Inky ruby. Complex scents of dried cherry, redcurrant, tobacco and musky herbs, with a suave mineral underpinning; smells like a Saint-Emilion from graves soil. Light in body but packing a serious punch, offering bitter cherry and red berry skin flavors along with sweet tobacco and dark chocolate qualities. The mineral note repeats on the finish, which is impressively focused and very persistent.

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The second wine, from lots culled out from Les Pavots, is called L'Esprit des Pavots. The 2006 L'Esprit (45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot) is soft, round, fresh, with loads of berry fruit, a touch of herb, and a spicy finish. It should be drunk over the next decade.

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Supple-textured and harmonious, with layers of ripe plum, currant, black licorice, cedar and cigar box that are evenly distributed. Rich and full-bodied without being heavy, this retains its focus and elegance, ending with a long, graceful finish and an espresso bean note. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot.

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