($110) Good pale greenish yellow. Bright, highly perfumed nose combines vineyard peach and minerals. Broad and deep yet almost magically light on its feet, with sexy, expressive flavors of orange rind, minerals and spices, plus suggestions of exotic fruits. As dense and ripe as this is, it leaves a very dry impression on the very long back end. From this winery's oldest vines (in Gauer Vineyard), where the Calera clone preserves acidity and produces big berries that are not particularly juicy owing to thick skins (the Belle-Cote is similarly from Calera clones).

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The 2006 Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene (545 cases) displays toasty hazelnut notes intermixed with subtle toast, tropical fruit, gout du petrol, fleshy, forward, very ripe notes, and some smokiness, all suggesting a more evolved style, and one to drink over the next 3-4 years.

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Big, ripe, rich and buttery, but also elegant and stylish, with layers of fig, cedary oak, spice and hazelnut. Still a bit raw, but very concentrated and persistent. 545 cases made.

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With Sushi. Very intense and concentrated favors of hazelnut, brioche and butter dominating the typically intense tropical fruit flavors found in the Cuvée Indigene. Long and head. On its last year of good life