($60) Good full, deep yellow. Leesy aromas of pineapple, apricot, earth and spices; this smells concentrated! Then fleshy and opulent but bright in the mouth, with strong mirabelle and honey flavors complicated by wild spices and herbs; conveys an almost waxy, oily impression of concentration. Finishes broad, wild and very long, with yellow fruits dominating. The crop level here was quite low in 2006: under two tones per acre, according to partner Anne Moses.

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From the Russian River, the 2006 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch exhibits copious citrus and mineral characteristics along with hints of honeyed grapefruit, wet rocks, and spice. This clean, crisp, medium-bodied Chardonnay is slightly monolithic, but it will offer attractive drinking over the next 2-3 years.

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Rich and perfumed, with a mix of honeysuckle, fig, pear and melon flavors that are medium-weight, elegant and stylish.

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