($80) Deep, hazy yellow. Brooding aromas of peach pit, pear skin, lees and minerals gain brightness with air, picking up livelier lime and lemongrass character. Densely packed orchard and pit fruit flavors are complicated by iodine, smoky lees and flowers. This has the texture and chewiness of a red wine. The finish strongly repeats the mineral element and lingers with impressive clarity and tanginess. For such a rich wine there's really surprising finesse too. The yield here was less than one ton per acre, Kistler told me.

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The 2006 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard's light gold hue is followed by a flowery, honeysuckle, crushed rock, white currant, nectarine, and caramel-scented bouquet. This full-bodied effort possesses superb acidity as well as length.

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A touch of mint joins ripe, rich, complex green apple and pear flavors in this full-bodied, complex youngster, retuning to the minty note on the finish.

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Another fantastic bottle - with thanksgiving dinner this wine showed vibrant crisp acidity and excellent integration of oak. 3-5 years of cellaring necessary, will drink another 5-10.