($75) Yellow-gold color. Powerful aromas of iodine, wet rock, smoky lees and pear skin. This is all about minerality, with fruit playing second fiddle. Fleshy, smoky orchard fruit and sweet butter flavors are brightened by white flowers and candied anise, with a kiss of herbs on the back. The remarkable mineral expression of this wine reminded me of a top wine from Coche-Dury.

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An exotic effort, the 2006 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard exhibits a light straw/green hue as well as boisterous, exuberant notes of buttery tropical fruit and smoky nuts. It is the most flamboyant and showy of these Chardonnays.

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Offers a rich, intense, layered mix of flavors, centered around smoky fig, apricot, melon and spice. Tight, concentrated and persistent.

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