($40) Good bright yellow. Very pure, subtle, reticent nose hints at green apple, flowers and spices. Supple, broad and dry, with lively, perfectly integrated acidity giving the wine a light touch. Finishes with excellent grip and building length. Perhaps more typical of the Forman style than the young '07, which comes across as a tad more exotic today. This wine is entirely barrel-fermented (20% of the oak is new) and spends seven months on its lees.

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Ric Forman, who started his winemaking career at Sterling in 1969, is certainly one of the most experienced and seasoned wine producers in all of California. While he is often accused of being too stubborn to change gears, he does seem to make subtle improvements every year I visit him. His Chardonnays, which have always been non-malolactic and crisp, with very little new oak (around 20% new), continue to represent a grand cru Chablis-like style from Napa. The 2006 reveals the classic lemon blossom, apple rind, nectarine, and striking minerality that is followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy wine that shows terrific fruit, purity, and depth. A stony style of Chardonnay, it should age well for 4-5 years.

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Straw in color with wonderful lemon, mineral and slight hint of oak - great balance and a permeating finish