($60) Pale greenish-yellow color. Iodine-accented pear and apple scents are complemented by lemon zest and smoky mineral notes. Silky in texture and seductively sweet, offering fleshy orchard and citrus flavors along with good mineral snap. Manages to be both rich and vibrant, finishing with excellent clarity and length.

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The 2006 Chardonnay Clare, which comes entirely from the Hyde Vineyard in Carneros, might be the most flamboyant of the three Chardonnays. Honeyed lemons, orange blossoms, a hint of pineapple and quince in addition to some crushed rock are all present in this full-bodied, deeply concentrated Chardonnay, which is even more impressive considering the vintage irregularities for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

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Ultrarich and ripe, with sweet fig, pear, melon and apple flavors that are full-bodied, intense, concentrated and exotic. Powerful yet elegant and persistent.

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