The Laurent 2006 Volnay Clos Des Chenes Vieilles smells delightfully of ripe, dark plum and cherry, gingerbread, vanilla, and herbal concentrates. Richly-fruited and -textured on the palate ' with an impression of bitter-sweet dark berry and herbal liqueur ' and underlain by a palpable sense of chalky extract, this finishes with sap, grip, and resonant interplay. Look for it to be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. There are only two barrels of it, but then, Laurent adds with a laugh, the grower who supplies him only has three.

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