($78) Deep red. Dark raspberry aroma, with sexy oak notes of sandalwood, coffee and mocha that became a bit exaggerated as the wine opened in the glass. The dark fruit flavors boast good sweetness but are carrying a heavy load of smoky, charred oak. Finishes with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and good length. I'd drink this on the young side while it holds its fruit.

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Laurent's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles St.-Jacques Vieilles Vignes ' which I have not had a chance to taste since it was bottled ' is firmly tannic and tight, as well as marked in the nose by pungent herbal and high-toned floral notes accentuated by the effects of vendange entier. Blond Virginia tobacco, dark chocolate, and ripe cherry saturate the palate, and this finishes with both sweetness and tannic grip. I would plan to give it at least 2-3 years in bottle to soften and hopefully open up further.

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Warm, enveloping and spicy, this oak-tinged red offers woodsy and leathery accents to its black cherry flavor. Fine length. A modern style that's well-executed.

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