(this vineyard is presently divided into fourths by the Domaine and one section is never used, another is always used and the remaining two are evaluated and added or not as quality dictates; generally the amount held out amounts to 1.5 ha) This is more elegant still but equally restrained as the almost discreet nose runs toward the plum and blue berry side of the fruit spectrum. The floral-infused, structured and very serious flavors culminate in a youthfully austere finish offering huge depth and length with both precision and linearity though there is a trace of dryness to the underlying tannins, which presently compromises the balance just enough where this is not quite at the same level as the very best in the range.

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($925) Deep red. Sexy, highly perfumed nose offers red fruits, cocoa powder and earth. Dense and sappy, showing more energy and cut today than the Grands-Echezeaux. Also conveys strong soil tones but here there's a compelling mid-palate sweetness and the tannins are quite fine.

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Lightish crimson with a pale rim. Still a bit of blue. Bright, healthy crimson. Sweet candified nose. Then quite a bit of acidity and freshness. Nice hint of fleshiness to come. But very teenage. Needs quite a bit of time. Lots of vibrancy and potential.

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The Domaine de La Romanee-Conti's 2006 Romanee-St.-Vivant charts its own mysterious path, dissimilar to that of their Grands-Echezeaux, as well as reflecting the strides in quality that have manifestly been achieved in recent years in this site, more than at any other at this domaine. Iris, buddleia, and musky narcissus-like floral perfume; ripe purple plum and blackberry; sassafras and licorice; along with smoked meat and a hoisin-like amalgam of spices and soy all waft alluringly from the glass. The tannins here are ultra-refined and there is a vintage-typical sense of levity, despite all of the dark intrigue of enveloping black fruits, forest floor, fungal, and carnal flavors that persist on the palate. Here is an uncanny alliance of the sensual and thought-provoking such as only great red Burgundy among the world's red wines can engender, and if this wine doesn't stimulate in you cravings and wonder at once, the fault is doubtless in yourself and not the glass. It seems to marry the brightness and finesse of the 2002 with the texturally richness of the (unexpectedly fine) 2000, two standouts in recent tasting of Romanee-St.-Vivant that I was privileged to attend. But there is much more depth here, and I expect that this wine's beauty will be worth pondering and savoring for at least two decades.

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Seductive and open from barrel about a year ago, this is more reticent now, especially aromatically. Nonetheless, there's richness and a slow buildup of berry and cherry flavors, which turn more refined and satiny as this lingers on the finish.âÂ?Â?Non-blind 2006 DRC tasting (February 2009).

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