While young La Tâche has the reputation of always being highly expressive aromatically, even explosive, there are some vintages where this tendency is more muted and 2006 is one of these. The positively gorgeous if presently reserved nose offers up the hallmark spice and floral components that are broad and deep though requiring some real glasswork to coax out but it's worth the effort as the nose here, restrained or not, is brilliant. The big and generous flavors are an exercise in contrasts as they are at once round and rich while remaining wonderfully defined and precise with more minerality coming to the fore than any of the prior wines displayed, all wrapped in a linear, precise and palate staining finish that not withstanding the initial aromatic reserve, is indeed explosive. This is already harmonious and the transparency and purity of expression are something to see. While I do not argue that the '06 La Tâche rivals vintages like '99 or '05, there is something special about this one that causes me to already be in love with it. In a word, magnificent and now that it is in bottle, my original description needs no modification except perhaps to observe that this is a Zen-like vintage for La Tâche as it is very calm and deliberate in demeanor.

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($1; 050) Deep red. Lovely high-pitched aromas and flavors of raspberry, minerals, flowers and spices; this could go into a time capsule. Then juicy, pure and almost magically light on its feet, with terrific verve and spicy lift. With air, a note of smoky underbrush emerged, but in comparison to this sappy wine the 2005 is distinctly more sauvage Finishes with sweet but firm tannins and outstanding purity and persistence.

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First impression is richness and depth but twinned with absolute elegance, so that it seems almost crass to try to identfy specific flavours, though there are aromas of pure red fruit and delicate spice. On the palate, too, tremendous richness and generosity even though you know it has so much more to give. Tight, fine tannic/acid stucture that you can clearly feel and see but that is perfectly in place. Like the Échezeaux, a tingly taste on your tongue long after the wine has gone. Lingering and mouthfilling without loss of elegance and purity. 13% (JH)

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Domaine de La Romanee-Conti's 2006 La Tache possesses a sense of sheer density and a viscosity - by no means precluding energy - that go beyond the other wines in the Domaine's current collection. Scents of bitter-sweet floral perfume, citrus oils, white pepper, peat, and black fruit distillates pungently, almost aggressively fill the nose. The marrow and beef gelatin aspect of this Pinot is salient, but is allied on a palpably tannic palate with similarly impressive concentrated cooked black fruits, dark mushroom stock, forest floor, smoky Lapsang tea, and licorice. For grip and power, too, this surpasses its stable mates. But a glance back at the Romanee-St.-Vivant suggests that you can't have it all, and that this La Tache cannot approach that wine's finesse or quite equal its mystery. Still, I suspect this will be worth following for at least two decades.

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Featuring black currant, licorice and sandalwood aromas and flavors, this is very structured, powerful and intense. There's also plenty of breed and finesse, coupled with a long aftertaste.

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