($105; 85% grenache and 15% syrah) Vivid ruby. Powerful aromas of blackberry, anise and smoky herbs, with a suave floral undertone. Fleshy and sweet, with deep dark berry flavors, supple tannins and slow-building minerality. Finishes with solid grip and a strong licorice note. This will need some time to unwind.

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The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Quartz exhibits the crushed rock minerality that gives the wine its name. It offers a liqueur of rock-like flavor intermixed with notions of black raspberries, sweet black cherries, and black currants. Layered, full-bodied, round, and incredibly elegant, it reminds me of a grand cru Burgundy from Chambolle-Musigny as much as it does a great Chateauneuf du Pape. Already approachable, this 2006 should drink well for 15+ years.

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This gushes with raspberry and boysenberry confiture notes supported by remarkably silky structure. Dense but lithe, with blueberry, spice, black tea and mineral notes gliding through the superlong finish, which really gains steam as this moves along.

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