Light gold. Fresh tangerine and white peach on the nose, with bright minerality adding lift. Deeper apricot and poached pear qualities arrive on the palate, along with anise, sweet butter and succulent herbs. Impressively complex wine, combining depth and energy, and finishing with excellent grip. Vincent Avril is adamant that this should "never be served with mollusks," but that it's fantastic with richer seafood, like grilled lobster. (Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ)

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Not to be ignored is the white Chateauneuf du Pape from Clos des Papes. The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc is made from a blend of all the authorized white varietals in Chateauneuf du Pape. Moreover, Clos des Papes is one of the few estates where there is a decent supply of dry white, about 10,000 bottles. Beautiful notes of honeyed grapefruit, spring flowers, citrus oil, poached pear, and a bit of nectarine are all present in this medium to full-bodied wine with gorgeous purity, good acidity, and a long, long finish. At Clos des Papes, the whites age incredibly well, but I still believe in drinking them in their first 2-4 years of life.

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Supertight and pure, with blanched almond, star fruit, acacia and lemon verbena notes all gliding along a bright, minerally frame. Lingering hints of orange blossom, honeysuckle and lime add further complexity. Should age beautifully. 830 cases made.

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Thin and acidic for my tastes