($195-$250) Deep ruby with a bright rim. Sexy aromas of red and dark fruit preserves, potpourri, allspice and smoky minerals. Juicy, extremely pure raspberry and mulberry flavors are complemented by notes of violet and rose pastille, with tangy minerality providing spine. A spherical, seamless wine that delivers a wallop of sweet fruit while maintaining admirable restraint and focus. Finishes with terrific cut and lingering spiciness. Manages to be powerful and wiry at the same time; this will live a long time on balance and energy.

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Superior to the 2007, the 2006 Hermitage reminds me of Chave's brilliant 1991. An incredibly subtle perfume of black raspberries, creme de cassis, camphor, and acacia flowers is followed by an elegant, concentrated wine with beautifully integrated acidity, tannin, wood, and alcohol. This seamless, gorgeously-proportioned, large-framed wine represents the definition of finesse, elegance, and terroir. It will be drinkable in several years, and should last for 20-25 years.

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Offers a remarkable combination of density and elegance, with a loamy, cocoa-driven backdrop to the crushed plum, black cherry, incense and iron notes. Long, silky tannins carry everything through the precise, mouthwatering finish. No skipping a beat here.

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