Deep gold. Remarkably pure peach, apricot, citrus honey and hazelnut aromas pack a huge punch, with lime and dusty minerality adding verve. Equally rich on the palate, with the pit fruit and honey qualities repeating and a whack of bitter quinine adding focus. Poses richness and weight against vivacity, finishing with superb clarity and clinging sweetness. Can't get this off the palate.

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Nearly perfect, the beautiful 2006 Ermitage Cuvee de l'Oree offers up sensational aromas of quince, honeyed hazelnuts, white currants, flowers, and a liqueur of crushed rocks. Incredible glycerin as well as zesty acids give this enormously-endowed, thick, massive wine surprising lift and laser-like focus. It should drink well for half a century!

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Very rich, with nearly oily texture and ripe, slightly smoky notes of mango, creamed peach, guava and melon. Long and creamy through the finish, with a buried stony minerality that helps stretch it out. There's more power now, so let this assimilate fully in the cellar.

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Polished golden colour. Intense attack on the nose, rich spicy oak, buttered toast, honey and marzipan. Powerful yet balanced. Round and soft on the palate, fat buttery fruits, toast, vanilla and brioche. Lovely balance with the youthful crisp acidity. Long finish.