($295) Good deep ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of raspberry, red cherry, mocha and tobacco, enlivened by menthol and a distinctly rocky element. Very ripe but juicy and tightly coiled today, showing terrific energy but less easy sweetness and flesh than the Matriarch. But this is more sharply delineated and long, finishing with subtle suggestions of brown spices, tobacco and licorice. Built for a slow evolution in bottle.

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The 2006 Melbury has a dense plum/purple color and a big, sweet, scorched earth, creme de cassis and blueberry nose, with hints of charcoal, spice box, and graphite. Rich, well-made, and showing exceptionally well from bottle, it is a wine that will certainly evolve for 25 or more years.

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Dense and chewy, well-oaked and concentrated, with dried currant, herb, sage and cedary oak flavors that are firm and structured. A big style, with a tannin level that will require patience.

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