($330) Glass-staining purple. Darker fruits on the nose than the Pagos Viejos, offering a heady bouquet of blackberry, mulberry, smoky bacon, anise and mocha. Explodes on the palate, showing sweet, concentrated cherry and dark berry flavors and exotic Asian spice and candied floral qualities. The tannins are completely absorbed by the fruit, which is enlivened by slow-mounting minerals. Finishes on an expansive dark fruit liqueur note, with excellent clarity and persistence. I couldn't get this off my palate, not that I tried very hard. (Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC)

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100% Tempranillo.Elegant restraint on the nose. Cedary, fresh red and black fruits with delicate notes of toast and spice. Fine, dry and mouthwateringly fresh and refreshing. A gracious wine. (JH)

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The 2006 Vina El Pison comes from a single Tempranillo vineyard planted in 1945 on pure limestone. The wine was aged for 16-18 months in new French oak. It has an ethereal nose found only in the greatest wines. Toasty oak, wood smoke, truffle, wild blueberry, and blackberry liqueur are striking and complex. This is followed by a layered wine with an elegant personality that still has plenty of grip, breadth, and length. It is a tour de force that will provide pleasure over the next 20-25 years.

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