It's as though the Clos de Bèze and Chambertin have switched places in 2006 as here the nose is positively kaleidoscopic with a huge range of aromas and spice elements leading to fresh, pure, round, rich and focused full-bodied flavors that carry obvious muscle and minerality on the deep, powerful and hugely long finish. An extremely impressive wine and one of the finest wines of the vintage.

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($362) Good deep red. Wonderfully pure, complex nose offers black cherry, minerals, red licorice and flowers, with an almost liqueur-like sweetness. Less expressive in the mouth but silky and suave in texture and considerably sweeter than the Clos de Beze, with compelling density and intensity of flavor. The almost liqueur-like red fruit quality carries through on the palate. The wine's sappiness gives it a weightless quality. The longest of these 2006s by far, finishing with superb grip and energy.

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Slightly sweeter than the wine before it but with real layers and oaked strawberry-jam appeal. A certain laciness. Solid effort. Not as reverberant on the finish as the Rossignol-Trapet before it but worthy.

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Tasted blind in Bordeaux, this is an exquisite Chambertin. It soars from the glass with pure Maraschino cherry, redcurrant, orange-blossom and white peach with supreme purity and delineation. Like a great Grand Cru, it seems to gain momentum upon contact with the air. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine precision, a more feminine Chambertin than other vintages but it has filigree tannins and a silky smooth finish that is utterly seductive. Wonderful.

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Tight and chewy in texture, sporting cherry, tobacco, leather and mineral aromas and flavors. Perhaps this doesn't have the density of its peers, but it's persistent from start to finish, with a long finish of sandalwood and licorice.

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