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Author: David Schildknecht
Amalgamated from four different suppliers, and vinified with some stems, Laurent's 2006 Volnay Santenots Vieilles Vignes is a bit awkwardly grainy in tannin, which when combined with a stony mineral undertone, makes for considerable austerity despite the wine's abundance of bitter-sweet black fruits. Smoky pungency and tart fruit skin add a sense of invigoration in the finish, where the wine manages to evince a sensation of lift that breaks free from its tanninity. Time will have to tell what is in store here, and this might still have been suffering post-bottling trauma when I tasted it, although that seems to be rare at this address. I would plan to revisit it in 2010 or 2011.
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