($200-$360; 80% merlot) Bright ruby-red. Very closed nose hints at licorice and nutty oak. Sweet and broad in the mouth, with a chocolatey ripeness but less energy and grip than the 2006. This is more mouthfilling, and more sexy today in the middle palate, but may ultimately be less complex. Or is it just more reserved today? Finishes with substantial tannins that call for at least several years of aging.

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Scored 17 in the Southwolds tasting of 2005 Bordeaux. Pale, slightly weak rim. Sweet, simple and tarry at first on the nose. But on the palate it was really interesting and there was lovely lift and freshness. Really appetising. Good structure. Quite long. Lovely and unctuous, this wine improved in the glass.

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A stunning effort from Alexander Thienpont, the 2005 Vieux Chateau Certan (a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) reveals an inky/blue/purple color along with a rich, sumptuous perfume of black olives, lavender, roasted herbs, licorice, pain grille, and oodles of truffles as well as creme de cassis. In the mouth, hints of chocolate and charcoal also make an appearance along with good acidity, fabulous purity, and a full-bodied, powerful mouthfeel. In keeping with the style of this terroir, the wine is reserved and restrained, but deep. It should develop magnificently, and age for 30-40 years.

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Shows violet, olive and sliced plum on the nose, with Indian spices and hints of cappuccino and chocolate. Complex. Very pretty and aromatic. Full-bodied, with wonderfully sweet fruit and chewy yet ripe tannins. Last for minutes on the palate. The best young red ever from this producer. 4,165 cases made.

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Still a bit closed in but, dispays balanced fruit and tannins to improve for a number of years