(from Santa Rita Hills fruit, 100% new oak and bottled at 14.9%; $70) A distinctly ripe yet not surmature nose features hints of spice, black currant and noticeable but not dominant wood influence that continues onto the big, rich, bold and sweet flavors that possess excellent volume on the delicious, sappy and chocolaty finish that has both a subtle tang and more than a touch of warmth. What elevates this beyond the ordinary though is the fine sense of underlying complexity as well as the much better than average length. In sum, this is no ballerina and it's not my style but it does make a statement.

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($69) Deep red. Exotically perfumed nose offers a wild array of dark berry, cherry, incense and floral scents. Spicy red and dark berry flavors are refreshingly bitter but became sweeter with air, gaining a white pepper and baking spice character. Really stains the palate, finishing with outstanding cling and length. I was looking for oakiness but didn't find it. Curran noted that she's as meticulous as possible with her winemaking, leaving as little as possible to chance. As she put it: "Spontaneity isn't a good idea when you're making red expensive wine."

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Bold, intense, big and expressive, yet for all its size this is well-proportioned, with a mix of ripe berry, plum and earthy mineral notes that unfold gracefully. Tightens up on the finish, so best to cellar short term. 1,500 cases made.

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