The 2005 Clos St.-Denis Cuvee du Centenaire - from vines planted in 1905 - is remarkable for the intensity and richness of its black fruit and exotically floral nose, its creaminess and almost Esszencia-like glycerin-richness, unctuousness, and viscosity, sumptuous flavors of black fruits, game, brown spices, blond tobacco, and preserved walnut, and a finish with prominent fruit pit bitterness but exhibiting remarkable subtlety. There is a Riesling-like intricacy of fruit-mineral interplay outlasting the sheer, stubborn clinging richness of fruit. Alas, a mere 125 cases will be bottled of this amazing wine.

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