($93; 100% grenache) Deep red. Musky cherry and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by sassafras, garrigue and anise. Saturates the palate with suave red and dark berry preserve flavors, hints of candied licorice and lavender, and velvety tannins. Seems to gain sweetness on the finish, which is striking for its mix of power and balance. There's nothing hard about this.

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The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul is 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah aged 100% in tank prior to being bottled. This wine always comes from the three best parcels of the estate - Les Serres, La Crau, and Guignasse. This hugely concentrated, muscular wine is very powerful, excruciatingly tannic at present, but super-rich. Yields were a low 22 hectoliters per hectare because of the drought, and this blockbuster, muscular, virile style of wine needs at least 5-6 years of bottle age and should keep for two-plus decades. It is certainly a terrific Mon Aieul, but for those who are very patient.

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Shows the great, embedded structure of the vintage, with a strong graphite undertow pushing the layers of blackberry, boysenberry and plum fruit, while additional sweet spice, mocha and bittersweet cocoa notes fill in the background. Packed with fruit and terroir, with a gorgeous mouthfeel. 1,500 cases made.

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Moderate fruit, raspberry, woody, with pretty tough tannin profile. Lots of backbone and will last for years to come. Tasted better next day.