($44) Bright red. Strikingly fresh aromas of vibrant strawberry and cherry, gaining depth and ripeness with air. The darker fruits continue onto the palate, which is brightened by a spicy blood orange quality. Finishes with excellent snap and drive, especially for a "basic" bottling. This has gained richness since last year but not at the expense of vivacity.

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The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition, a 100% destemmed cuvee produced from 25 hectoliters per hectare and aged 80% in old wood foudres and 20% in tank, is dense purple with terrific fruit notes of raspberry, black cherry, and even some black currant and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, with good acidity, moderate tannin, and outstanding ripeness and length, this wine will be at its best in 2-3 years, and drink well for 12-15. Brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio have once again produced some of the finest Chateauneuf du Papes of the vintage, particularly in 2005. This is no small accomplishment given the fact that their 2003 cuvees were among the very finest wines of that challenging and irregular year.

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Taut and reserved for now, with red plum and red currant notes held back by sinewy tannins and a racy minerality. Has solid length, and the flesh should fill out with cellaring.

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