($80) Hazy gold. Rich, smoky scents of baked apple, yellow plum and melon, plus a strong iodine accent. Restrained citrus and orchard fruit flavors are complicated by smoked meat and mineral accents, with a hint of tropical fruits on the strikingly persistent finish. A bright mineral snap and jolt of licorice adds eye-opening focus. This site, situated at around 2,000 feet, is planted mostly to the Calera clone, which Nic Morlet says has a thick skin that helps to preserve acidity.

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Again, orange blossoms, hazelnuts, brioche, smoke, and honeysuckle along with some peach notes are present in the full-bodied, beautifully well-delineated, pure, zesty 2005 Chardonnay Ma Belle-Fille. There are only 1,600 cases of this wine, which has superb uplift and vibrancy.

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Pure, rich and focused, showing a mix of ripe pear, apple and mineral flavors, with floral, fruity aromas that give this a distinctive quality. Turns delicate, flinty and refreshing on the finish. 1,600 cases made.

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