($110) Yellow-gold. Intense smoke- and lees-influenced aromas of pear, quince and tangerine, with strong mineral and licorice accents. Powerful and broad on the palate, with ripe but focused pit fruit and citrus flavors, complicated by honeycomb and chamomile. One of the most soil-driven California chardonnays I've ever tasted, with outstanding focus and depth. Finishes on a deep, pungent note of licorice root.

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The 2005 Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene is spectacular. Huge honeysuckle, nectarine, and citrus oil notes along with some lemon blossom, crushed rocks, and subtle smoke are all present in this full-bodied wine that is buttressed by sensational acidity. This is a gorgeous wine that should age for at least a decade.

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