($180) Bright ruby. Rather wild, claret-like aromas of currant, black raspberry, leather, dark chocolate, spices and tobacco. Then velvety in texture but also juicy and firmly structured, with mouthcoating flavors of dark berries, bitter cherry, minerals, cola and bitter chocolate. This elegantly styled wine really coats the mouth without coming off as overly sweet. Finishes with noteworthy spine and length. With extended aeration, this grew sweeter and creamier, with the black raspberry fruit taking over.

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Tasted blindNot very opulent, ripe nose – introvert. Cassis. Opulent and very sweet on the front palate. Then inky finish – even a little too tannic. Certainly very dry! Very youthful. Slightly tarry, and finishes a bit short. Slightly skinny.

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The opaque purple-hued 2005 exhibits an extraordinary nose of violets, creme de cassis, charcoal, and spring flowers. Gorgeously pure, opulently full-bodied, with sweet tannins, superb concentration, and a low acid, ripe, tannic finish, it tastes like a top-notch vintage of ripe Bordeaux, but made in California.

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A tightly knit youngster, with hints of earthy cedar, tar and tobacco which join ripe currant, red cherry, anise, leather, sage and spice, ending with a strong, structured tannic finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

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