A touch of wood influence combines with the superbly complex and remarkably primary deep black fruit nose that is positively kaleidoscopic in its range of spices that continue onto the super rich, even opulent flavors that ooze dry extract yet this tightens up instantly on the finish and becomes borderline austere. There is real muscle and punch here and while the nose is ultra refined, the flavor profile runs toward the robust. Incredibly impressive potential but this is clearly a wine for the patient.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio

($173-$400) Saturated bright ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, licorice, minerals, meat and smoke. Large-scaled and impressively dense, with superb energy to the dark fruit, licorice, mineral, spice and game flavors. The explosive finish is like an avalanche over the palate, driving out everything in its wake. Substantial ripe tannins are hidden by complex finishing flavors of red fruits, smoked meat and leather. For all its soil-driven wildness, this sappy, extract-rich wine is quite pristine. Should be a monumental bottle by 2020.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio

The 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees has the polish, refinement, creaminess of texture and charm that the Parantoux lacked. Sweet black raspberry, nut paste, and butter-creme dominate in the nose and mouth, and the counterpoint of faintly caramelized fruit, toasted nuts, and grilled meat with diverse mineral expressions and juicy freshness of black raspberry and pomegranate is captivating. This long, polished wine should be given 8-10 years of development by which time a direct comparison with the presently more austere and high-strung Parantoux should be a rare treat.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio