(from a .45 ha parcel of 70-year-old vines) A very fresh nose that is completely different with a subtle hint of menthol combining with game, smoke and more subtle spice notes on the predominantly red fruit aromas that merge into rich, detailed and strikingly powerful broad-scaled flavors dripping with extract that saturates the palate on the wonderfully intense finish. This doesn't possess the sheer complexity of the Echézeaux but there is more structure and finishing punch. I have a slight preference for the Ech because of its superb focus but it may be very close after 10 years of bottle age.

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($293) Good deep ruby-red. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, cherry, smoke, game and minerals; more tangy than the Boudots or Clos Vougeot. Superripe and sweet, but with good lift and definition to the black raspberry, game and spice flavors. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins and excellent mineral-driven length.

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The Meo 2005 Corton Rognets delivers yet more fresh black fruits and minerals in the nose. Tart berry skin and chalky undertones compliment a generous fresh fruit juiciness on the palate. Refined tannins and admirable length of fruit and stone complete the picture of an unusually bright and lithe Corton that still, I suspect, needs 8-10 years in the cellar.

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