A very ripe black cherry, pepper and crushed herb nose is trimmed in discreet wood spice that can also be found on the rich to the point of opulent broad-scaled flavors that are strikingly concentrated and oozing with dry extract yet retain a fine sense of precision on the explosively long finish. Méo has been generally looking for a bit more weight and punch with this wine and over the last few vintages and he certainly has achieved it here without sacrificing the elegance that has always characterized the Méo Clos de Vougeot.

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($254) Good deep red-ruby color. Wild black and red cherry aroma complicated by a truffley nuance. Creamy and fine-grained, with an uncanny thickness for this cuvee As rich as this is, though, it also boasts very good inner-mouth lift. "I don't really recall having this kind of creaminess in this cuvee," Meo admits. "Maybe the '99 approaches this."

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The 2005 Clos Vougeot displays roasted, singed meatiness along with bitter-sweet, szechuan pepper-tinged mulberry fruit. Boasting terrific density on the palate, fineness of tannin, clarity of fruit, and saline, chalk and wet stone manifestations of mineral, this finishes with pungent spice and stone fruit. Lock this away for 8-10 years.

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