($65) Bright ruby. Pungent raspberry, cherry and lavender on the nose, with a suave underpinning of minerals and baking spices. Riper cherry and blackcurrant on the palate, with slow-building mocha and plum jam qualities carrying into the finish. Deeper and more powerful than the regular bottling but lacks that wine's vivacity and cut. This will need more time to come around.

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The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Quet exhibits a dense ruby/purple color to the rim and broad, impressive aromatics of spring flowers, melted licorice, camphor, and blue and black fruits. In the mouth it is layered, powerful, full-bodied, with high tannin, beautiful purity, and a finish that exceeds 45 seconds. This is a knock-out wine. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025. Brilliant wines from the northernmost sector of Chateauneuf du Pape emerge from the Chaussy family, and in 2006 they have added a third cuvee which looks sensational although somewhat unusual in that it is 100% Mourvedre cuvee aged in demi-muids and barrels.

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A dark, chewy style, with serious layers of fig, briar, espresso and loam. But this isn't top-heavy, with a beam of blackberry fruit running through the finish and enough well-embedded acidity for length and balance. Impressive.

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