($50) Medium red. Flamboyant dark berry aromas, with intense floral and blood orange accents given depth by a suggestion of cured tobacco. Plush mulberry and boysenberry flavors are deep, round and sweet, but there's ample acidity to give the wine energy and focus. Bright red berry tones come up on the finish, which boasts striking precision and length. This is awfully sexy right now.

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Closed and dominated by allspice, clove, and herbaceous black cherry notes is the 2005 Pinot Noir Moonshine Ranch (610 cases). This is a relatively bigger, more masculine style of Pinot Noir, with forest floor notes and loads of body and tannin. It will need time to round into shape.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio