($50) Light red. Very expressive, precise aromas of spicy raspberry, redcurrant and wild strawberry. Fleshy and deep in red berry flavor, with gentle acid lift and an expansive, almost liqueur-like intensity on the finish. This really gains power with air but retains freshness and precision. Whatever tannins are here are completely absorbed by the lush fruit.

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A new cuvee, the 2005 Pinot Noir Lolita Ranch, comes from the newer Dijon clones, 115 and 777. Light ruby in color with a nose of sweet cherry/kirsch liqueur with hints of licorice and forest floor, this is a lush, fleshy, seductive wine that is appropriately named. This medium to full-bodied, heady, voluptuous style of Pinot should be drunk over the next 5-6 years. Kudos to the Martinelli family, one of the great old winemaking families of Northern California. (They also produce exquisite apples as well.)

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