($75) Good bright, pale yellow. Lovely lift and complexity to the aromas of lemon, almond, marzipan, stone fruits and flowers, with intriguing crushed rock and fruit pit nuances. Densely packed and generous on the palate, showing much more flesh and generosity of texture today than the young 2006. But there's also superb grip to the flavors of lemon drop, crushed rock, minerals and spices. This has put on weight since I tasted it a year ago from barrel.

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A stunning effort, the 2005 Chardonnay boasts copious notes of floral, honeysuckle, and orange oil offered in a full-bodied white. It possesses terrific acidity, a striking terroir-based minerality, and beautiful delineation as well as purity. This is a large-scaled yet remarkably fresh wine with the balance and grace of a world-class ballerina. Enjoy it over the next decade. John Kongsgaard's Chardonnays come from the family's 9-acre, high elevation, cool climate, Coombsville vineyard in southern Napa. His Syrah's emerge from the Hudson Vineyard, a special block that was planted to his specifications.

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Fresh and lively, rich and spicy, with a distinct olive oil-like edge. Shows lemon, pepper, fig, green apple and a hint of marshmallow, ending with a long, complex finish. Not on par with the 2003--quite a bit sleeker. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 2,000 cases made.

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At peak drinking age. The wine opened up by the second glass to reveal crisp acidity dominated by orange flavors and pungent aromas of citrus and the sweetness of honeysuckle. Long and full.