($80) Vivid gold. Intensely mineral aromas of Meyer lemon, pear, apple and dusty talc. Fresh and energetic, offering tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and gaining spiciness with air. Finishes fleshy and broad, with excellent clarity. This won't let go of the palate.

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The 2005 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard possesses honeysuckle, tangerine, and orange blossom characteristics along with great acidity, plenty of minerality, a greenish hue to its light gold color, and fabulous texture, length, and richness. I suspect there is more honeysuckle in this offering than in some of its peers, but it is flirting with perfection ... it's that compelling.

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Rich without being overblown, with smoky, toasty oak joining ripe pear, melon, citrus, honeysuckle, mineral and fig flavors that are notably elegant and refined, keeping a tight focus and ending with a lingering aftertaste.

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