($75) Yellow-gold. Sharply focused tangerine and lime aromas are complicated by dusty minerals, white flowers and anise, with a suave undercurrent of toasty lees. Vibrant, finely etched citrus flavors expand on the palate, picking up honeyed pear and green papaya notes. This really stains the palate on the back end, leaving behind a strong echo of smoky minerals.

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Consistently one of my favorite Chardonnays from this estate, the exotic 2005 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard offers hints of litchi nuts, tropical fruits, orange marmalade, and mangoes. Full-bodied, with tremendous length, terrific intensity, and an explosive bouquet, all underlaid with super, sappy acidity, this is a gorgeous white to drink over the next decade.

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Rich and full-bodied, with a mix of citrus, herb, green apple and pear-scented flavors that are complex, well-focused and concentrated, ending with a long, rich, smoky finish. 920 cases made.

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