($70) Green-tinged gold. Drop-dead aromas of spicy lemon, lime, green apple, iodine and white pepper offer striking clarity and energy. Deeply flavored but surprisingly lively, combining power with finesse and showing a array of citrus and exotic fruit flavors. Tangy minerality keeps things in check and adds vivacity to the long, sappy finish. Eventually leaves dusty minerals and refreshingly bitter pear skin in its wake.

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From a Sonoma Coast vineyard, the 2005 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard reveals extremely uplifted aromatics displaying hints of wet stones, white currants, flowers, peaches, and subtle tropical fruits. Full-bodied, intense, and tightly-knit, it should drink well for 7-8 years. Kistler Vineyards, undeniably one of the world's finest winemaking estates, is run with passionate dedication to detail and quality by Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler. It is wines like these that keep an old critic like me inspired and energized.

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Exotic, rich and complex aromatics of white peach, toasty oak, tangerine, nectarine, mineral and pebble, ending with a lively, elegant beam of fruit flavors that are long and lingering.

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Nice minerality to mix with the normal Kistler flavor.