($90) Bright gold. Assertively perfumed, mineral-driven aromas of pear, quince and musky yellow plum, with a smoky undertone of iodine and peat. This extremely complex chardonnay offers spicy orchard and pit fruit character, velour-like texture and excellent depth. Admirably restrained and pure, with superb finishing lift, cut and minerality.

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The 2005 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen is a selection of the finest lots from all the vineyards, but most of it comes from the Kistler Vineyard. Full-bodied, firm, and backward, it is behaving more like a red wine than a Chardonnay. It boasts fabulous concentration, superb ripeness, plenty of honeysuckle, orange rind, and tropical fruit characteristics, copious minerality, and enormous length as well as richness. This beauty is as good as any Chardonnay made in either the New or Old World.

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