($175) Good full ruby. Highly complex nose captures all the elements of this historic site just inside the Silverado Trail in Yountville: cassis, lavender, violet, tobacco, dried herbs and minerals. Suave on entry, then highly concentrated and firmly built, with lively acidity buffering any impression of alcohol. Quite floral and fine-grained, and very long and juicy on the finish, with a subtle sweetness. This will rely as much on its firm acid spine as on its supple tannins for longevity. An intriguing, Medoc-like wine with considerable restraint and finesse.

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A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the opaque purple-hued 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard is a rich, full-bodied effort displaying notes of cedar, truffles, black currants, coffee, chocolate, and spice. With sweet tannin, full-bodied power, and impressive purity and length, this rich, backward, Bordeaux-styled wine does not ignore the wealth and extravagant fruit of Napa Valley. In short, the best of both worlds.

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Tightly wound, intense and deeply concentrated, with cedary oak, dried herb, loamy earth, sage and dried currant flavors that beg for cellaring or decanting. Very tannic now. Tasted three times, with consistent notes.

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Coming into its own but with years to go. Silky, sweet tanins, black currant, plum, graphite and spice box flavors. Pure and elegant.