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($300-$795) Deep ruby-red. Deeply pitched, wild aromas of black raspberry, game, smoke and Cuban tobacco. Shows a texture of liquid silk, along with uncanny sweetness and depth to its flavors of blackberry, licorice, violet and spice. The spectacular finish features utterly suave, noble tannins and great palate-staining length. This very primary wine is downright creamy today but is sure to shut down in bottle.

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From vines said to have been planted in the 1880s, the Roty 2005 Charmes Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes announces its distinction a foot away from the glass, with uncanny intensity and clarity of black fruit essences, along with ineffable mineral and animal suggestions. Tactile cinnamon spiciness, bitter-sweet herbs, and black cherry and black raspberry concentrate (fresh, yet with liqueur-like intensity, sweetness and viscosity) saturate the palate, and a dark and rising tide of mineral and carnal flavors meets the fruit and spice in a thunderous finish. There is mystery aplenty here, with the sex appeal well beneath the surface.

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